Tuesday, October 30, 2007

Bicyle Addiction Usually Much Less Expensive Than Sailboat Addiction

I had a visit from Jim and Tracy a few weeks ago in the shop. Jim has a site, cyclofiend.com. Go click around on the gallery if you want to see some eye candy in the form of 400 classic bicycle submissions from owners, which you can view by maker, if you like. Then, you can check out the collection of Nishiki and Univega bike photos on yojimg.net , which belongs to Jim G., another Bay Area cyclist.



Between both sites, you should be able to get more info on your old Nishiki, Univega, Bridgestone, Rivendell, and Ibis. (I drilled down through the links on a bunch of submitted classic bike gallery pages, and I ended up finding an article on my 1960s Legnano via ebyker.com.)



Wait until you get to work before you start clicking on these sites, or you are going to be late again.



Heronwayfarer 1983univegapage1



Photo of the #400 submission to the cyclofiend gallery, a Heron Wayfarer, is lifted from the site.
Photo of the Univega happy cycling family is lifted from the yojimg.net 1983 Univega catalog directory.



Dutch Students and Their Nuna4 Solar Vehicle Win Race Across Australia

I know you love your bike. And you may think that your car is boss.



But this solar car is wicked boss.



Dutch students build and race a solar car and win the Solar Worlds for the 4th time while wearing their orange proudly (just in time for Halloween).




Nuna4



Check out the site of the Nuon-sponsored team site. Click on the "nuna4 in actie" button on the bottom right to get a view of the driver's seat. Teams from all over the world participating in the race look like they had a blast.



Spoke Toys Persistence of Vision Devices for Your Wheels

Ok, I was planning to try my hand at making one of ladyada's spoke POV (persistence of vision) programmed led electronic devices for my bike, since I had a grand time making the minty boost.



Ladyada's electronic device allows you to program words or images, which once you attach the device to your spokes, show up when your bike wheels are spinning. (If you check out her site, you can see the Pacman characters are moving.) If you want to know how and why it works, check out the FAQ on her site.



Ladyadapov Ladyadapov2



(These photos taken from the ladyada.net site.)



And, now, the consumer equivalent is here, the Lex.



For those who do not want to solder and make devices, you can use Windows (XP, 2000, or Vista) to program into the device a word or sentence in English or in characters (Hiragana, Katakana, and Kanji). You plug the Lex into your laptop via USB, and you transfer your intended message to the device. You attach the device to your spokes, and when your wheels are spinning, the device creates a message via the programmed led lights. One AA battery is good for 96 hours of cycling word fun.



(If you know the price and where to get the Lex, post a comment for us.)



Lex Lex1Lex2 Lex3



(These photos taken from the Digital Cowboy site)





Pete's Halloween Treat for Narda 32H Campagnolo Record Hubs Orange Velocity Aerohead Rims

  • Campagnolo Record black 32H 10-speed rear hub 130mm


  • Campagnolo Record black 32H 10-speed front hub 100mm


  • Velocity Aerohead Orange 700c OCR rear rim (machined sidewall)
    • Note: Make sure you calculate spoke length to the correct ERD for each rim type. An OCR rim (off center rim) has an off-center drilling to reduce the dish, and thereby the difference in drive side and non-drive side spoke tensions. The ERD for an OCR is different than the ERD for a normally drilled rim.
      • ERD = 598 for OCR Aerohead 700c.


      • ERD = 602 for Aerohead 700c normal drilling.


  • Velocity Aerohead Orange 700c front rim (machined sidewall)


  • Sapim DB 14/15/14 stainless steel black spokes and black Polyax nipples
    • Spokes for the OCR rear drive side are 3 cross = 16 x 290mm


    • Spokes for the OCR rear non-drive are 3 cross = 16 x 292mm


    • Spokes for the front are radially laced  = 32 x 282mm
      • (I know. But style and sense said refrain from 3-xing a Campy Record front hub for a 125 lb female road racer who once put 100,000 miles [yes, five zeros] on a Campy bottom bracket.)


Campyorange1



Friday, October 26, 2007

Turn Up the Tune and Dance, Dance, Dance

Let me make this clear, if around your middle, you can pinch any amount of fat that could correspond to the outline of a groupset component, you may not be quite ready for uber light Tune components. Your body is 80 percent of your success on the bike. However, if you don't have the equivalent of a short cage derailleur sleeping in the fat between your pelvic bone and rib cage, read on.



At Interbike, I talked with Sarah, the US distributor for Tune, to see what uber light components the German company were going to make available in 2008. First, the Tune 2008 catalog is a welcomed work of graphic creativity. The components are all  photographed in different medical operating room settings. And it appears the employees of Tune have taken it upon themselves to dress up as various types of surgeons. This is not your typical bike parts catalog filled with typical bike parts. Next, I asked Sarah what the purchase-to-thrash rate was for these parts. Light in the bike world is usually bleeding-edge technology. She had no good stories for me. Evidently, her husband, sporting an athletic but non-hummingbird build, has also repeatedly tried to destroy Tune components to no avail. (If you have a story to tell, post it. You know I love a good story.)



But, let's get to the point. If you spend $272 on MIG 45 in the photo on the left; 16H, 18H, 20H, 24H, or 28H; with carbon flanges and carbon axle, you will be riding on a 48-gram front hub, which, children, weighs less than half of your Halloween chocolate bar. For mountain goats who love the simple life, Tune for 2008 is releasing two new single-speed hubs. (Weights and prices galore after the jump.)



Tunemig45 Tunemag180
MIG 45 front and MAG 180 rear hub photos taken by Wheelgirl in Vegas 2007



Rear road and some mountain hub prices and weights are as follows:


  • (See previous paragraph for the MIG 45 specs)

  • MIG 70 front hub for road or mountain ($75 gms $168)
    • 16H, 18H, 20H, 24H, 28H, 32H radial ok except in 32H

  • MAG 150 road rear (156 gms $780)
    • Left-side carbon with carbon flange 16H-36H, black or gold only

  • MAG 160 road or mountain rear hub (168 gms $606)
    • Special bearings + carbon axle Titan freewheel 20-36H  no radial lacing

  • MAG 180 road rear hub (formerly MAG 190) (186 gms $374)
    • Special bearings + aluminum axle, road only 20-36H, no radial lacing

  • MAG 180-Ti (formerly MAG 190) road and mountain rear hub (200 gms $480)
    • Special bearings + aluminum axle, Titan freewheel, 20-36H, no radial lacing

If you are a mountain goat, see the MAG 160 and MAG 180 rear hub previous info., and the following disc hub weights and manufacturer suggested retail prices:


  • Princess front disc hub 17mm-axle 24H, 28H, 32H (118 gms $219 msrp)

  • King front disc hub 15 mm 28H, 32H cross country and freeride (140 gms $198 msrp)

  • King MK front disc hub (Markus Klausman tested) 32H  (156 gms $219 msrp)

  • Kong-Ti rear disc hub Magura, Shimano, Hayes  Titan-freewheel body 32H (240 gms $510)

  • Kong MK rear disc hub 12 mm thru-axle, 150mm, Titan-freewheel body (248 gms $606)

And yes, you uncomplicated mountain goats, Tune is releasing two single-speed mountain rear hubs:


  • Singlespeeder disc rear hub 32H for $606 msrp (I don't have a published weight)

  • Singlespeeder V brake rear hub 32H  for $606 msrp. (Again, no weight yet in print.)

The weights and prices are taken from Tune's published materials. Check out the Tune website for more info. Numbers don't always match. So, check a few sources. Or call your lab rat friends who own highly calibrated digital scales or a card-carrying weight weenie weigher to verify the grams if you have any questions. Also, currency fluctuations do have a bearing on pricing. So, remain somewhat flexible, and regardless of your spiritual belief system, if you plan to buy bike parts from Euro-hip manufacturers in 2008, you may want to light a candle for the US dollar.


Thursday, October 25, 2007

Have Beaters in the Garage or Going on a Black Ops Mission?

Ladep is the word "pedal" spelled backwards for those who are not operatives in the CIA. And the Ladep is a tall bike, as evidenced by the photo of the guy riding above the picnic tables. You advance the bike and yourself by pedaling backwards. The friction from the top rear wheel drives the bottom rear wheel. And the chain is on the left. (So you can now permanently stain your other trouser cuff.) Check out a bunch of the 2006 Cyclemagic Festival homemade bikes on YouTube . What do you use it for? Planning to make an apple pie anytime soon?



The Hyperbike is something that Marshall would make in for Sydney Bristow to gain silent and uninvited access to an Eastern Bloc warehouse in the middle of nowhere. It is 200 lbs, not in production, and gives you an upper body workout. Granted it eliminates numbness and discomfort related to pressure on your hands and butt. But if Marshall could mount a silent hand-cranked Gatling tranq gun on it, it could really make for some good spy fun.



Ladep1 Hyperglide1



via oobject



Daniel's 32H Black Paul Flip/Flop Track Hubs on Velocity White Deep Vs

  • Paul black 32H High-Flange Track Fixed/Free 120mm rear hub


  • Paul black 32H High-Flange Track 100mm front hub


  • Velocity Deep V 32H white rims (non-machined)


  • 3 cross pattern


  • Sapim DB 14/15/14 stainless steel black spokes and black Polyax nipples
    • Spokes for the rear fixed side = 16 x 281mm


    • Spokes for the rear free side = 16 x 281mm


    • Spokes for the front  = 32 x 281mm


  • Velocity red Veloplugs = 64


FYI: I was a lab rat and tried Velocity veloplugs on my own fixie. When changing a flat, I did have one or two of the plugs unseat themselves and not fit snuggly back into the spoke hole again. It was kind of a pain. So, I am back to Velox rim tape. Daniel is  giving them a test on his ride to see what his experience is with the light, waterproof, plastic plugs that fit in the spoke holes. (The veloplugs are the red dots in the photos.)



Paulwhitedeepv Paulwhitedeepv1



Photos taken by Wheelgirl



Ladyada's Minty Boost Reduces Spider Monkey Incidents on Bikes

Ok, I am impressed. Really impressed. This week I decided to make ladyada's Minty Boost, a portable USB power pack that will charge your iPod, takes 2 x AA batteries, and fits in an Altoids gum tin.



Why would you make the Minty Boost?  Because you turn into a spider monkey on acid the moment your USB-powered mp3 player dies and you can no longer ride with tunes. Stick a Minty Boost in your seatbag, and put your mind to rest, since now you will not have to get to a USB connection on a computer to restore the power to your player. Plug in your dead iPod and pedal away in happiness. The Altoids tin is a great size for stashing in a jersey pocket.



Mintyboost1 Mintyboost2



These photos taken by Wheelgirl



(*Deep Thought: Put the earbud in only one ear. Listen to your music on low, so you don't get pressed. And unless you are trying to win a Darwin award, think about why you don't want to listen to loud music through noise cancelling headphones while on the road.)



ladyada studied some of the other USB portable battery packs, and she designed this pack a while back, in part because it is smaller, lets you listen longer, and doesn't have an on off switch that you can leave on by mistake. Her documentation on her design process and the kitting up of an original electronic design is a good read for you gearheads.



ladyada finds the Altoids gum disgusting, and her design has a 5V boost converter that facilitates a big power boost. This, in turn, gives you more more hours of listening time from your 2 x AA batteries. And the battery drain with her design is so teeny, it would take about as long as the life of the batteries for all of the power to leech out.  Here are running time numbers taken from her site:


  • "iPod video (tested, using alkaline batteries): 3hrs more video (1 full recharge)

  • iPod shuffle (not tested): 60 hours more (5 full recharges)

  • iPod mini (tested w/rechargables): 26 hours more (1.5 full recharges)"

ladyada sells her kits on her retail site, adafruit. And her documentation, photos, and specific attention to detail provide for a great electronic hobbyist experience. She did her grad work at MIT and has designed some other dandy electronic devices for bikes. If you have questions related to your specific device, there is a user forum where you can ask questions.


Go click around on her site even if you hated math and just wanted to write short fiction and smoke cloves when you were in high school.


Ladyada0 Ladyada1 Ladyada2 Ladyada3 Ladyada4 Ladyada5


All detailed photos taken from ladyada.


Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Make a Shimano Mountain Wheel Fixed with Surly Fixxxer Hub Converter

We build many types of track and road fixed gear wheels as well as provide those on a budget with machine-built fixed wheels for street riding at a decent prices. So, I've had this Surly Fixxxer hub converter sitting in the case for a while. There wasn't really a reason to use it. Until last weekend, when I wanted to convert an old red Nishiki Colorado mountain frame into a fixed gear for street trick riding.



The head mechanic stuck the Fixxxer onto one of our hand-built wheels, Shimano XT rim brake hub laced to a Velocity 26" Deep V, and he finished his coffee while it was still hot. You are probably running disc brakes on your mountain bike. So, put an old rim brake mountain wheels you've been saving to good use.



The Fixxxer retails for around $85.00 + shipping according to clicking around on google. And it is a practical answer to those who want to reuse an old road or mountain wheel in the garage, and convert it to fixed. It works on any Shimano cassette hub except for Silent Clutch of pre-1997 Dura Ace.



You can stick on any track cog or freewheel with ISO standard threads (1.375 x 24 tpi) and English lockring (1.29 x .24 tpi Lefthand). It is best to install the Fixxxer on an exisiting wheel that is laced and ready to go, not an unlaced hub. It comes with spacers, so you can space the hub correctly to fit your frame. 



Surly1 Surly2



Photos by Wheelgirl: The crumpled, grease-smeared back of the install sheet showing spacing and the Surly Fixxxer installed



If you've not done any hub conversion work, go to a coffee shop. Buy four cups of coffee for the bike shop crew and two waters for those shop employees who believe they are in contact with the spirit world when they drink too much caffeine. Ask to watch the hub conversion process. It is not infant surgery, but it is somewhat technical, and if you don't know what you are doing, you could end up you-know-what over tea kettle in a pile of leaves this fall or worse.


Fixed wheels work on flatish to rolling asphalt pretty well for most determined cyclists. There is a reason that most single-speed mountain riders choose a freewheel over a fixed cog for mountain trail riding. You can't coast or spin your pedals to clear obstacles with a fixed mountain wheel. However, there are cyclists who race and ride fixed mountain bikes. (Of course, now that you know it is difficult and perhaps dangerous, you are most likely thinking to yourself, I am going to have to try that.) 


Black Tape On Your Frame is Out and Colored Vinyl for $2 Is In

Customer Will came into the store to buy an inner tube, and I couldn't help but notice the blue panels on his Bianchi Pista. Because they matched his tires, and they were, well, very blue. It was obvious that it was not paint, tape, or a bad powdercoat. His secret?



A colored vinyl sheet 8 x 11 inches costing something like $1.18 from Michael's The Arts & Crafts Store. The material (remember Colorforms?) is useful for non-marring decorations and the like. It clings like to the smooth chrome frame (as well as to a smooth powdercoat or paint job). And if you someday might need to sell your bike, the original finish and decals stay intact.



Sure it is a bit hoopdee. It won't cling that well when it is dirty. And anyone can see that it isn't paint. But you won't have to spend a bunch of time getting the adhesive from electrical tape off of your frame. It is classier than a home-made sticker, and you can try on some of your stripe and panel color idea before having to pay the big bucks for a custom paint job.



Bpista2 Bpista1



Saturday, October 20, 2007

Blingle Speeds, Titanium Ti-Dyed Spokes, Rainbow and Unicorns

You got a raise at work. You need to make a statement.  Your are not a fashion plate; you sniff your shirts to figure out if you can get another work day out of them. Your parents didn't give you a poetic name. You are not one to dangle a new good luck talisman from your cellphone. And your bike is in a rut, so you are hell-bent on an upgrade that you are not going to see on every bike double-locked to a parking meter. Your stiff wheels and frame are loosening your fillings, but you want to look good?



The answer: Follow your rainbow, because at the end of it is a pot of gold you can spend to have us build you a wheelset that you don't see too often, titanium Marwi Ti-dyed spokes set off by alloy colored nipples for a combination of uber light and comfortably springy hoops. (Of course, you can pick simply silverish Ti-colored spokes, or a solid blue, if you never wanted to chase a rainbow or ride a unicorn.)



Ti spokes will cost between $3.50 and $4.50 each, depending on your taste. You already know that alloy nipples are good for reducing weight, and they are not meant to be serviced continually or last for years like brass nipples. You also know that pricey Ti and aero spokes offer a weight savings that is irrelevant if you ride with your fatso u lock and 5-lb key chain in your 14-pound lady- or man-purse you call a backpack. But you don't care. You've been checking out the reviews on the web. People are liking the ride these spokes provide. And you know you were not put on this earth just to spend money on consumer electronics.



The_lady_and_the_unicorn_desire Marwitispokes



Friday, October 19, 2007

2008 Campagnolo Record and Chorus Front Derailleurs Work with Compact and Traditional Cranksets

First, the big news is that all Campagnolo 9- and 10-speed "QS" trademarked front derailleurs for 2008 will work with both standard and a compact crankset. Happy days. No more having to buy crankset-specific front derailleurs.



Richard at the Campagnolo booth at Interbike showed me the new design of the Record and Chorus front derailleurs. The 2008 change in design facilitates smoother shifting by using the wider part of the derailleur cage, located closer to the derailleur attachment point, to contact and shift the chain. This is a change from the exisiting design, which employed the thinner part of the cage located further away from the attachment point.  Campy has changed the cage, the brace, and the fixing clamp of the Record for 2008.



Campy 2008 front derailleurs have a 16-tooth maximum capacity for shifting difference between the chainrings. So, add 16T to the smallest ring on your crankset, and that is the largest ring you can use. The largest chainring the front derailleur can accomodate is 55T and the smallest is 34T. (For example,  you can't use a 55Tx34T, since you have to add 16T to the smallest ring, which is 34T + 16T = 50T largest ring. But you could, theoretically make a 55Tx39T, but I am not sure why you would want to do this.)



Record front derailleurs are made of aluminum alloy and composite. Chorus is made of aluminum alloy. The other groupsets use stainless steel for their front derailleur material. Front derailleurs are kind of "dumb" components with one job to do, move the chain.  But I can see how reducing the stress on the cage by shortening the lever arm created by the contact point of the cage might be especially helpful to racers executing quick shifts under substantial load. If you are racing with Campy record, and you buy yourself a Record 2008 front derailleur, and let us know if the upgrade in shifting performance was worth the coin.



Recordfront1 Recordfront2 Chorusfront



Photos taken by Wheelgirl at Interbike in Vegas 2007. The extremely ugly pics are usually taken through plastic display cases.



Thursday, October 18, 2007

Strida 5.0 Folders at 19.4 lbs in Silver and Red Shipping End of October

Strida folding bikes have been around for a number of years. The Strida 5.0 ($799.00 msrp) at 19.4 lbs is going to be shipping at the end of October in silver and red. The Strida folder uses a Kevlar belt, instead of the usual metal chain to connect the drivetrain. The belt is reported to last for approx. 50,000 miles. (I wrote a post  in August about belt-driven full-sized non-folding single-speed bikes for 2008.)



The Strida 3.2 ($499.00 msrp) weights in at 22 lbs.  Reviews of the Strida are here. (And for some reason, I seem to remember an early print ad campagin with royalty or celebs in it?)



The inventor/designer of the Strida, Mark Sanders, has also designed a full-sized bike folder, the Swivel-Head."



Strida5



strida (bike site)
swissmiss (designer gal)
treehugger  (alt energy site)
gizmodo  (you know who they are)



Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Low Rider and Trusty Commuter Bike Rolled Into One

Ok, this bike is not in production, but you can either ride around in a laidback, aimlessly position and visit garage sales. Or you can choose to sit up; get your act together, and really, really focus on your commute to work.



I have no idea how much it weighs or if the components are proprietary. Watch the video to see the transitioning details. I can't say it is pretty, but it looks like a fun machine.



Switchbacklaidback Switchbacklaidback2 Switchbacklaidback3



gizmodo.com via www.freshcreation.nl 



Tuesday, October 16, 2007

Make a $5 Be Seen Solar Bike Light in Your Kitchen

My red flashing led rear bike light has never let me down. But what do you do when you have a great bike headlight and are a couple of miles from home when the battery dies?  I decided to reposition a $5.00 solar garden light into a light-weight portable "be seen" solar bike light that I could hang on my backpack. Now, in the event of a dead headlight battery, pedestrians and drivers can spot a me and my bobbing white light when I am biking on the road after dark. During the day, ride with the panel facing out. Once it is dark, flip the box over, and the white led brightly shines.



Bseensolarfront_3Bseensolarback_2 Bseensolarside_3



The rules of the game for making the be seen solar bike light were that I could only use things I could find in my kitchen, except for the solar garden light, which was in the living room. (They make very nice mood lights.) I had to make it relatively quickly, have fun, and be able to use it bike riding when I was done. You can certainly make yours snazzier, neater, and more weatherproof. But I was in my PJ's on a Sunday morning feeling lazy. The tools and supplies I used for the $5 be seen solar bike light are as follows:



  • An old kitchen knife, a pair of scissors, a corkscrew, a wooden cutting board, a ballpoint pen, a Sharpie, a nail file.


  • A solar garden light, a small wooden match, an old postal envelope,a twisty tie, a Newman's Own Organic Ginger Mint metal box. The images on Newman's mint boxes are really cool. I used the ginger dragon. But I have a cinnamon tiger tin waiting for another project. (I thought of making it with a cassette tape case, since the clear plastic will allow more light to escape. But the tape cases are made of plastic that tends to shatter. I've dropped my be seen solar bike light a couple of times, and it has survived.)


Directions to make the $5 be seen solar bike light are after the jump.



1. A very brief overview of how solar garden lights work: Solar garden lights have circuits that takes directions from a photoresistor, which you can think of as a "light sensor" if you are not an electronic type. If the light sensor senses light from the sun or other light source, it tells the circuit to not turn on the led, and instead store the electricity made by the solar panel in the rechargeable battery. When it gets dark, and the light sensor no longer senses light, the circuit knows to go directly to the rechargeable battery, and use the stored power in the battery to make the led shine. You can read more detailed info about solar garden lamps here. (But I got 4 solar garden lights for $19.99. So, my guess is that since this linked article was written, the prices have dropped.)


2. Do not be wicked and "borrow" your neighbor's solar garden light without asking. You want to try to get a solar garden light that has the light sensor built right into the solar panel. In the first photo, the solar garden light on the left is the one I used. It has a silver light sensor strip built into the solar panel. The type on the right, the same one that the finger points to, has a separate light sensor. To make this type of light work for this project, you have to make sure to transfer the sensor, or the circuit won't know when to turn off or on the led. If you have the choice, pick the solar garden light that has the silver strip and not the one with what looks like a white button.


Gettheoneontheleft Dontgethisone


3. Turn the light over; turn the little screws that hold the piece on the bottom to the left to unscrew them. Remove the screws, and carefully remove the black plastic bottom piece.


Takeoffback1 Takeoffback2 Takeoffback3


4. Remember, you have a rechargeable nickel cadmium "Nicad" battery in this light. So, make sure that down the line, when it no longer will store a charge, you dispose of it according to the rules.


Nicadbattery


5. Take a sharp kitchen knife, and carefully cut out the solar panel and the circuit. Make sure you don't crack the panel by pressing down hard on it. Take your time. Don't slice through anything important. Go slowly, and keep checking to make sure you are not destroying anything that is connected to the panel.


Cutoutpanel Cutoutpanel1


6. Position the panel and circuit battery side up in the tin box. Take a moment to look at the graphic art on the front. Try to line up the led when the lid is closed with the design in such a way it doesn't wreck the graphic image on the lid. (The led in the dragon's eye would have obscured the image.) Flip over your normal kitchen wooden cutting board, so you don't get metal bits in the side you use to make sandwiches. Take the kitchen knife and make a bunch of little perferations in the tin. Don't use your best knife. Use an old one. Metal on metal is a bad idea for good knives. Then, snip the tin with the scissor. This can leave very sharp edges, so take the nail file and gently smooth the edges. You can also cover the edges in bits of cardboard and packing tape if they are really sharp.I didn't have any tape in my kitchen. Remember that tape can get sticky and gooey if left in the full sunlight regularly. Make sure that the hole you create allows for the silver strip light sensor in the solar panel to be exposed and not covered by the box.


FrontboxCutoutback2 Cutoutback3


7.  To make a liner for the tin, place the tin on the old envelope and trace the shape of the back including the hole in the tin. Double the material, and at the same time, cut out two exact copies of the shape. I did this because I did not measure and cut the tin precisely while being a Sunday lazy slug. So, the hole was a bit big for the panel. However, it is better to make it too big than too small, since you have to make sure the light sensor strip is exposed and not covered by the tin box.


Envelope1 Envelope2


8. Put the liner in the box. Put the circuit in the box. Cut the head off of a wooden match, wedge the circuit into place with the matchstick. I didn't have epoxy or silicon caulk in my kitchen. A matchstick works fine. Plus you can easily take the panel and circuit out of the box at a later date and reuse it for another project. Use a Sharpie to blacken the frame around the panel. We want to absorb light.


Linermatchstick Sharpie


9. Close the box part way, and line up the led, so you get a sense of where you want to hole for the led to be. Check to make sure you have a clear idea which part of the graphic on the front you are going to remove. Turn the middle part of the corkscrew slowly to the right, and drill the hole in the image side, so that the sharp edges will be inside the box. Then, take the twisty tie, and make a hanger by bending it into an upside down "U". Place it in the middle of the tin, so it is not touching any wires or parts of the circuit, and shut the lid on it. The pressure of the lid will hold it. Take extra care to not mash the led connections to the circuit board when you are putting the led into the drilled hole. Make sure you stash some emergench cash in your be seen solar bike light, in case you want a slice of pie and a cup of tea one night and don't have any money in your pockets.


Lineuptheled CorkscrewTwistytie Stasha10 


10. Give it a test. When the back solar panel is covered, it led shines. When the back solar panel is sensing light, the led doesn't shine. And there you have it, a $5 be seen solar bike light.


Kitchentest Sloppyclosettest_2